Puerto Williams to Buenos Aires

Puerto Williams is a Chilean city located on Navarino Island on the southern shores of the Beagle Channel. It claims to be the “southernmost city in the world”, however owing to its small size – 2500 residents approximately – the much larger Argentinean city of Ushuaia, which sits on the northern side of the same channel, also claims that title. The surrounding scenery is magnificent. The wild windswept mountains rise above the tree line and are regularly dusted with snow. The city itself has the dramatic backdrop called “Dientes de Navarino” (literally “teeth of Navarino”), which rival the famous Torres del Paine further to the north. The area was originally used by the Yaghan people, hunter-gatherers who despite enduring the harsh regional climate, could not weather the arrival of Europeans. The current city was established as a naval base in 1953 and honours the British-Chilean naval commander John Williams Wilson of the 16th century. Initially it served to protect territorial possessions and fishing rights of the area, as well as offering logistical support to Antarctic bases. More recently it has become a departure point for scientific and tourism trips to the Antarctic region. In contrast to the bustle and traffic of a very commercial Ushuaia, Puerto Williams offers a quieter, more relaxed experience. It charms the visitor with a small village feel, complete with rustic buildings and the homely smell of drifting wood smoke. A haven of peace at the end of the world.

In the past, no two words conjured up more fear to sailors than Cape Horn. With its reputation of ferocious storms and mountainous seas it was a place where a seafarer garnered respect for bravery against the odds. That is, if he lived to tell the tale (he also got to wear a gold hoop ear-ring and dine with one foot up on the table).The Cape itself is the rugged insular tip of South America that projects into the storm-swept Drake Passage. The Dutch sailor Willem Schouten and merchant Jacob Le Maire, both from the town of Hoorn (hence Cape Horn), put it on the map in 1616 when attempting to circumvent the trade monopoly exercised by the Dutch East India Company over the Straits of Magellan.Once an unavoidable physical gateway to adventure and commerce in the Pacific Ocean, Cape Horn nowadays has more of a spiritual attraction, drawing intrepid travellers to pay homage to the brave sailors who, by necessity, attempted to pass this wild and inhospitable headland.During clear weather, when the island is free from the frequent icy squalls that batter its shores, a 7-metre (23 feet) high steel monument can be seen standing about 1.5 kilometres (1 mile) away from the true cape, near the Chilean navy station. It depicts the silhouette of an albatross, a bird that is said to carry the souls of those sailors who perished “rounding the Horn”. With that in mind, consider yourself lucky to confront the Horn on a luxury Expedition cruise ship rather than from the wave-washed and perilous deck of a windjammer.

Sailing the legendary Drake Passage is an experience that few are ever lucky enough to experience. The southern tip of the Americas already feels like a wild enough environment – but the sensation of watching the distant cliffs of the peninsular known as the ‘End of the World’ fade into the horizon, is one that’s equal parts epic, eerie and magical. Set sail, to slowly drop off the bottom of the map from Cape Horn, and voyage on an expedition down into the icy underworld of Antarctica. Drake Passage is an extraordinary voyage of romantic ocean faring legend, as you aim for Antarctica’s icy realm. On arrival, skyscraper sized icebergs salute you, as you traverse the waters of this continent where snow and ice dwelling creatures like penguins and whales roam undisturbed. Your first sight of this most-unexplored place will most likely be the South Shetland Islands. Walk in the footsteps of some of history’s greatest and bravest explorers as you explore famed, snow-covered landmasses like Elephant and Deception Island. If the journey across Drake Passage sounds daunting, don’t worry – even in rough seas you’re never alone, and will often be accompanied on this spine-tingling adventure by soaring albatrosses and maybe even a protective pod of humpbacks and hourglass dolphins or two. Converging warm and cool ocean currents attract some spectacular animal life to the passage. 

Few voyages ignite the imagination like a journey down to one of the planet’s most remote extreme and enchanting wilderness Antarctica. An adventure in its purest form only a handful of people will ever be lucky enough to experience the majestic beauty of these monochrome landscapes first-hand. The Antarctic Sound will be one of your first encounters of this whitewash kingdom located at the northerly tip of the Antarctic Peninsula - which sprawls up like a tentacle towards Tierra del Fuego, South America’s most southerly point, otherwise known as the ‘End of the World’. Taking its name from the first ship to brave the passageway between the peninsula and the Joinville Island groups back in 1902, the Sound is a raw sensory assault of imposing iceberg slabs broken away from the disintegrating Larsen Ice Shelf. Come face-to-face with stadium-sized islands of ice and meet the extraordinary birdlife that call this whitewash kingdom home. Watch on as colonies of Gentoo penguins hop around and cape petrels sweep overhead as the continent’s unique wildlife thrives around you. If you’re planning your first venture into Antarctica you’ll want to brush up on your photography skills in advance to capture this unforgiving continent in all of its unrestrained glory.

The Antarctic Peninsula unravels upwards towards South America reaching out a beckoning finger to the adventurous who dare to explore this untamed realm. Stretching up from the heart of the world’s southernmost continent the Antarctic Peninsula lies a mere 620 mile from Tierra del Fuego and for many offers a spectacular first taste of the snow-blanketed landscapes and colossal ice sculptures which make up Earth’s least-explored continent. Unseen by humans until 1820 - a blink of an eye ago in relative terms - this is an adventure sure to make your hairs stand on end as you experience the thrill of the truly unknown and extraordinary. The vast peninsula is sprinkled with research bases which are at the frontline of human scientific endeavour pushing to study and understand this unique landscape, its exceptional wildlife and the impact that humans are having on this pristine continent. Witness cathedral-sized icebergs up close and blue-hued glaciers slowly slipping from imposing locations.

The Antarctic Peninsula unravels upwards towards South America reaching out a beckoning finger to the adventurous who dare to explore this untamed realm. Stretching up from the heart of the world’s southernmost continent the Antarctic Peninsula lies a mere 620 mile from Tierra del Fuego and for many offers a spectacular first taste of the snow-blanketed landscapes and colossal ice sculptures which make up Earth’s least-explored continent. Unseen by humans until 1820 - a blink of an eye ago in relative terms - this is an adventure sure to make your hairs stand on end as you experience the thrill of the truly unknown and extraordinary. The vast peninsula is sprinkled with research bases which are at the frontline of human scientific endeavour pushing to study and understand this unique landscape, its exceptional wildlife and the impact that humans are having on this pristine continent. Witness cathedral-sized icebergs up close and blue-hued glaciers slowly slipping from imposing locations.

Charcoal-black mountains ladled with snow giant glaciers and thriving wildlife combine to make South Georgia one of the great natural islands. Adventure to these far flung lands - where the animals are in charge and humans come a distant second. Here you'll witness a cacophony of calling birds, natural set pieces like elephant seals clashing and thrashing and crowds of colourful king penguins stretching out as far as the eye can see. An overseas territory of the UK, these isolated subantarctic islands once formed a remote whaling centre - and you can still visit the former whaling stations. Nowadays the giants of the sea are free to cruise the icy waters uninhibited. Written into explorer history due to its links with Ernest Shackleton’s tale of Antarctic exploration, shipwreck and survival, the Endurance’s crew were saved when he reached the salvation of these shores in 1916 - before returning to collect the remaining sailors from Elephant Island. A museum commemorates the legendary mission and you can see the memorial to Shackleton that stands over his final resting place on this fabled island. South Georgia’s colonies of King Penguins - with vivid bursts of yellow and orange around their necks - stand squabble, and curiously investigate, enjoying the isolated respite of this island. They’re joined by smaller penguin species like Macaroni penguins and other glorious birdlife like the majestic wandering albatrosses which you can see gliding on gusts of wind over the choppy waves.

Charcoal-black mountains ladled with snow giant glaciers and thriving wildlife combine to make South Georgia one of the great natural islands. Adventure to these far flung lands - where the animals are in charge and humans come a distant second. Here you'll witness a cacophony of calling birds, natural set pieces like elephant seals clashing and thrashing and crowds of colourful king penguins stretching out as far as the eye can see. An overseas territory of the UK, these isolated subantarctic islands once formed a remote whaling centre - and you can still visit the former whaling stations. Nowadays the giants of the sea are free to cruise the icy waters uninhibited. Written into explorer history due to its links with Ernest Shackleton’s tale of Antarctic exploration, shipwreck and survival, the Endurance’s crew were saved when he reached the salvation of these shores in 1916 - before returning to collect the remaining sailors from Elephant Island. A museum commemorates the legendary mission and you can see the memorial to Shackleton that stands over his final resting place on this fabled island. South Georgia’s colonies of King Penguins - with vivid bursts of yellow and orange around their necks - stand squabble, and curiously investigate, enjoying the isolated respite of this island. They’re joined by smaller penguin species like Macaroni penguins and other glorious birdlife like the majestic wandering albatrosses which you can see gliding on gusts of wind over the choppy waves.

Charcoal-black mountains ladled with snow giant glaciers and thriving wildlife combine to make South Georgia one of the great natural islands. Adventure to these far flung lands - where the animals are in charge and humans come a distant second. Here you'll witness a cacophony of calling birds, natural set pieces like elephant seals clashing and thrashing and crowds of colourful king penguins stretching out as far as the eye can see. An overseas territory of the UK, these isolated subantarctic islands once formed a remote whaling centre - and you can still visit the former whaling stations. Nowadays the giants of the sea are free to cruise the icy waters uninhibited. Written into explorer history due to its links with Ernest Shackleton’s tale of Antarctic exploration, shipwreck and survival, the Endurance’s crew were saved when he reached the salvation of these shores in 1916 - before returning to collect the remaining sailors from Elephant Island. A museum commemorates the legendary mission and you can see the memorial to Shackleton that stands over his final resting place on this fabled island. South Georgia’s colonies of King Penguins - with vivid bursts of yellow and orange around their necks - stand squabble, and curiously investigate, enjoying the isolated respite of this island. They’re joined by smaller penguin species like Macaroni penguins and other glorious birdlife like the majestic wandering albatrosses which you can see gliding on gusts of wind over the choppy waves.

Despite it being a stalwart of Britishness, Stanley more resembles Patagonia than Portsmouth. But, despite the windswept, vast and achingly beautiful landscape of the Falkland Islands, don’t be too surprised to find the odd pub serving ales and even fish’n’chips. While landmarks such as Christ Church Cathedral, with its whalebone arch are 100% local, there is a also good smattering of imported garden gnomes and Union Jacks to remind you whose territory you are really on.The Falkland Islands’ ownership has long been a matter of controversy, ever since colonisation in the 18th century. At various points in their life they have been considered French, British, Spanish and Argentine. The Falklands War in 1982, despite only lasting for a short while, proved that the Brits clung to this remote outpost and the islands remain part of the British Commonwealth today. Margaret Thatcher, under whom the war was masterminded, remains something of a local hero as can be seen in the street signs (such as Thatcher Drive). For those who want to dig deeper into the past, the Historic Docklands Museum provides lots of information on the chequered historical and political background of the Falklands.However, the true heroes of Stanley are of course the thousands and thousands of penguins. Five species nest here during mating season (including the rare rockhopper penguin). There are virtually no barriers between you and the wildlife; allowing for a truly interactive, authentic and totally unforgettable experience.

Meet some of the world’s most incredible wildlife on the remote Saunders Island. Sitting to the north-west of the Falkland’s archipelago the British established their first settlement here in 1765 at Port Egmont. Remote wild and wonderful the island now serves as a lush grazing ground for plenty of sheep - but it's an astonishing place to encounter far rarer animals - from elephant seals to silvery grebes and Peale’s dolphins. Connected by sinewy links of beach and sandy dunes which create some of the most dramatic scenery in the Falklands the archipelago’s fourth biggest island is home to its best birdlife - including a colony of neatly tuxedoed king penguins. Saunders Island's topography tightens at The Neck - where you'll find even more penguin activity. Colonies squark and chatter in huge crowds here with Gentoo, Rockhopper, and Magellanic penguins dipping into the water and clambering over boulders. The cliffs to the north of the mountain host rare black-browed albatross - a sight of sheer grace in flight - but comically clumsy at times when landing. Elsewhere lakes are home to various water birds - including the rare black-necked swans.

A north-westerly outpost of the scenic Falkland Islands you'll be welcomed ashore by the calls and cries of black-browed albatross. Indeed the island was originally known as Albatross Island before being renamed to reflect its geographic location. While the albatrosses - that flash white feathers in the rugged cliffs above the waves - are the most well known residents they are far from the only animal inhabitants of this remote isolated land. A huge army of birdlife calls the island sanctuary home overwhelming the tiny human population and sheep that roam West Point Island's grasses. Meet the Rockhopper Penguins who scamper and burrow along the coast's boulders as well as the imperial cormorants who rest here in great numbers. You're also liekly to encounter Magellanic penguins during your explorations. Hike the island's quiet landscapes and look out for endemic plants like Felton's flower the green interior. Decorated with some of the archipelago's most dramatic scenery explore this wind-lashed distant land of soaring cliffs and towering coastal precipices. Cliff Mountain is the island's standout - a towering sandstone monolith and the archipelago's highest cliff falling away to swirling waves below. Look out to the waters to spot Commerson's dolphin chasing each other around the island's wave-washed footprint. Whales also visit as well as the fur seals who you may spot lounging around West Point Island's inviting shores.

Overlooking the vast Golfo Nuevo the northern Patagonian town of Puerto Madryn is one of Argentina’s top whale-watching spots. Founded by Welsh explorers who arrived aboard the Mimosa ship in 1865 Puerto Madryn welcomes visitors to enjoy its wonderful wildlife traditional tea shops and sheep-rearing ranches known as estancias. An astonishing array of animals call the protected Valdes Peninsula home. See penguins wandering sea lions yawning lazily and playful guanacos galloping here. Head to the beaches of Estancia San Lorenzo to hear the racket made by hundreds of Magellan penguins. The blackened beach of Loberia de Punta Loma bears witness to huge elephant seals rising up and clashing dramatically – or lounging around docilely - and you can even take advantage of the opportunity to swim snorkel and scuba dive with curious and playful sea lions. Further afield Tombo National Reserve is a vast breeding ground for birds and penguins while a huge Magellanic penguin colony 1 500 000 strong spreads out further south at Punta Tombo. Boats roll out from Puerto Madryn on the hunt for Southern Right Whales and orcas among the many marine mammals who move through the waters offshore. Few experiences compare with feeling the salt spray as giant humpbacks crash against the surface. Look out for the black and white Commerson’s dolphins too which are some of the smallest members of the dolphin family.

Passionate, and alive with an infectious crackling energy, the Argentine capital is a breathlessly romantic city, which blends old-world colonial architecture with a down-to-earth Latin American clamour. Famed for steamy tango interplays, and expertly seared steak slabs, a visit to Buenos Aires is a fiery fiesta for the senses. Parque Tres de Febrero is a 400-hectare oasis where 18,000 rose bushes bloom, and skyscrapers give way to still lakes and pretty paths of rollerblading locals. Mighty palm trees - that look like exploding fireworks - stand tall in Plaza de Mayo, the heart of this sprawling cosmopolitan capital of 48 barrios. The square has served as the stage for many fundamental events in this country’s history, and the location where the seeds of independence were sewn continues to serve as the city’s gathering point - and is a place for solidarity, rebellion and revolution. The presidential Casa Rosada’s salmon-hued Palatial Palace borders the plaza, while nearby Museum Nacional de Bellas Artes houses the largest collection of public art in Latin America. Teatro Colón, the opulent 1908 opera house, is one of the world’s finest venues - musical performance here take on an ethereal quality, with the exceptional acoustics transferring every quiver of bow, and tremor of vocal cord, to the audience in spine-tingling clarity. The gargantuan, precipitous terraces of Bombonera Stadium form another of Buenos Aires’s incredible venues, and a wall of noise emanates from it when Boca Juniors take to the field. Juicy steak and punchy Malbec flow in the city’s parrillas – steakhouses - while glitzy bars and thumping nightclubs welcome revellers late into the night. It’s not just the meat that sizzles here either - tango dancers fill milongas - dance halls - to strut passionately until the early hours. Sip steaming mate, the country’s national drink, shop in covered markets, and explore Cementerio de la Recoleta - a city of grand graves and intricate memorials honouring presidents, politicians and notable Argentine heroes from history.

Passionate, and alive with an infectious crackling energy, the Argentine capital is a breathlessly romantic city, which blends old-world colonial architecture with a down-to-earth Latin American clamour. Famed for steamy tango interplays, and expertly seared steak slabs, a visit to Buenos Aires is a fiery fiesta for the senses. Parque Tres de Febrero is a 400-hectare oasis where 18,000 rose bushes bloom, and skyscrapers give way to still lakes and pretty paths of rollerblading locals. Mighty palm trees - that look like exploding fireworks - stand tall in Plaza de Mayo, the heart of this sprawling cosmopolitan capital of 48 barrios. The square has served as the stage for many fundamental events in this country’s history, and the location where the seeds of independence were sewn continues to serve as the city’s gathering point - and is a place for solidarity, rebellion and revolution. The presidential Casa Rosada’s salmon-hued Palatial Palace borders the plaza, while nearby Museum Nacional de Bellas Artes houses the largest collection of public art in Latin America. Teatro Colón, the opulent 1908 opera house, is one of the world’s finest venues - musical performance here take on an ethereal quality, with the exceptional acoustics transferring every quiver of bow, and tremor of vocal cord, to the audience in spine-tingling clarity. The gargantuan, precipitous terraces of Bombonera Stadium form another of Buenos Aires’s incredible venues, and a wall of noise emanates from it when Boca Juniors take to the field. Juicy steak and punchy Malbec flow in the city’s parrillas – steakhouses - while glitzy bars and thumping nightclubs welcome revellers late into the night. It’s not just the meat that sizzles here either - tango dancers fill milongas - dance halls - to strut passionately until the early hours. Sip steaming mate, the country’s national drink, shop in covered markets, and explore Cementerio de la Recoleta - a city of grand graves and intricate memorials honouring presidents, politicians and notable Argentine heroes from history.